Sunday 8 June 2014

Code Black: Brunswick cafe

After my first visit to Code Black, my overwhelming impression was of good food in a black setting that reminded more of a corporate hotel.  I returned for the food.  Often as a vegetarian, I feel most of the effort goes into the meat and my options are less impressive.  Not so here.  Over three visits, the meals have been inspirational and of a high quality.

Code Black has served me dishes that are surprising, light and satisfying.   I don't imagine I would find these dishes in any other cafe nor is it likely I would make them at home.  On my first visit I had a stack of zucchini, almond and chia fritters with corn salsa, avocado and coriander.  (No egg on top for me.)  It delighted me because it was so light and fresh and full of vegetables.  I even enjoyed the coriander, which is not normally my herb of choice.

I found the staff very friendly on this visit.  I had just bought a Shirley Barber children's book and was leafing through it while I waited for my meal.  My waitress stopped and talked to me about how she used to love Shirley Barber books as a little girl.  As I left I admired the cakes but I had eaten my fill.

After talking to E about Code Black he was intrigued to try it.  We have had a few trips down to Barkly Square (fondly known as Squarkly Bear) recently because we have bought new bikes for Sylvia and me.  Sylvia outgrew her bike and mine just grew old.

Sylvia had a berry smoothie and a crumpet with honey.  I was impressed with the smoothie because it was really fruity and not terribly sweet.  (I often find smoothies in cafes more milk than fruit and too sweet.)  The crumpet (which is only on the children's menu) seemed home made and was lovely.

E had a croissant with butter and jam with a coffee.  He reported very favourably on his brunch.  I chose the Brunswick ploughman’s lunch.  I have had a few ploughman's lunches in my time but never one like this.  It was unusual, different, nice!  And very Middle Eastern.  I chose to have a vegan one, which meant no boiled egg or goats cheese or pastourma (cured meat, I think).  Code Black is quite vegan friendly and actually made substitutions rather than just subtractions.

Above you can see just how laden and colourful my platter was.  My Brunswick Ploughman's consisted of chickpea fritters, pickled cabbage, roasted mushrooms, olives, beetroot dip, grated carrot with cumin, fresh radish, avocado with dukkah, gherkins and home made flatbreads with dukkah.  It was a lively combination of flavours.  The warm spicy flatbread was superb.  The chickpea balls were tiny and a bit dry but they were lovely with the dips.  I also loved the mushrooms and beetroot dip.

We made this visit on a Saturday.  The service was hit and miss on this day.  We had to ask for honey with the crumpet, a knife and a serviette.  Also our water took a while to arrive.  (I had ridden my bike there and was parched.)  However when each of these items was eventually brought to us, they were delivered with a friendly smile.  Before we left a waiter came and asked us how our meal was.

My most recent visit was yet again on a day when Code Black's proximity to Squarkly made it attractive.  I ordered one of the specials: smashed peas with goats cheese, dill and pickled golden beetroot on wholegrain toast.  (Again I didn't have the egg.)  It was another marvellous meal.  The goats cheese was transformed into a tasty creamy sauce that really took the peas to another level.  Could Code Black do no wrong!

Sadly I finally found that not all of their food made me swoon.  I decided I really had to try one of the little round vegan mudcakes.  For research, you understand.  It was disappointing.  Not horrible.  Just too sweet and lacking the density I expect in a mudcake.  So in future I might just stick to their yummier savoury food.

Overall I really loved the food I have eaten at Code Black.  Sadly two things make me less keen to return.  I am not so keen on the dark cave-like interior.  The old warehouse feels more like a nightclub than a cafe.  (If only they had retained more light and exposed bricks like East Elevation!)  And the prices are high.  ($15 for a sandwich with crisps and $16 for a salad)  Granted, there are brilliant ideas and fresh ingredients. And these will keep me coming back.

Code Black

15-17 Weston Street (opposite Barkly Square)
Brunswick 3056
Tel: 03 9381 2330
Open 7am to 5pm
http://codeblackcoffee.com.au/cafe/

Code Black Coffee on Urbanspoon

14 comments:

  1. That's a bummer about the cake :( But it does sound like great food otherwise, I'll have to add this to my list of places to visit. I think people that ride bikes around Brunswick are incredibly brave, I'm too scared to ride a bike on Melbourne roads!

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    1. Thanks Veganopoulous - the inner north has some great bike paths/lanes and I find I can mainly avoid busy roads - but as I grew up riding a bike on quiet quiet quiet country roads I can appreciate how busy Melbourne seems.

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  2. I am glad that you found a place with good vegan food, even if the sweets aren't great. A homemade crumpet sounds drlish.

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    1. Thanks Cakelaw - I'd like to taste other sweets but I prefer the savoury offerings but will report back if other sweet food is more promising!

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  3. I keep meaning to give it a try, I would love the option for substitutions rather than paying same for the recipe made veggie!

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    1. Thanks cate - I was very impressed with the vegan Brunswick Ploughmans - though when I didn't have egg on my other dishes I don't think anything was added - but they were pretty substantial without egg so I wasn't too bothered.

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  4. Big smile and thumbs up to any place that gets YOU to even enjoy Coriander! You know I love the stuff. Shame about the sweet things though, still half ain't bad. And I know what you mean about if being cave like, I too would like it bit open and airy.

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    1. Thanks Shaheen - I would like to eat coriander so occasionally I do try and find if served in particular ways I can cope with it. I think if they said that the cake was a chocolate cake rather than a mud cake I would have been less disappointed.

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  5. Looks wonderful, so freshh and colourful. It would we great to have somewhere like this close by

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    1. Thanks Katie - we are very spoilt for choice here with some great cafes around us

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  6. I love it when omni restaurants really make an effort to have good veg options!

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    1. Thanks Joanne - agree - good to have a place demonstrate it isn't that hard

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  7. That's great when they put some thought into the vegetarian food rather than just offering anything! And I must look up that author-I haven't heard of her before!

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    1. Thanks Lorraine - there is such good vego food out there now that there is no excuse for giving us the slops. Shirley Barber does beautiful fairy illustrations and we have found quite a few of her books in op shops

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