The Last Drop - cosy pub grub

We are packing to leave Edinburgh so I am feeling quite nostalgic about the place. Hence I will indulge in a quick pictorial post on my Edinburgh. I love to sit in cosy British pubs while wind and rain pound outside. My favourite pub is the Last Drop in the Grassmarket. I managed to visit twice during my visit and had a lovely meal both times.

My second visit was on the weekend with Sylvia and my friends Yarrow and Mindy. Our day spanned both the New Town and the Old Town starting at the National Scottish Gallery between the two. I love the rich red walls, elegant arches and antique seats which situate the paintings in their era. We had a quick look there and at the nearby German Christmas Markets. Then we took a quick trip into the New Town to Hendersons vegetarian foods shop. If we had been in Edinburgh longer, I would have been tempted by many foods.

We soon returned into the Old Town going up the Mound, past the best view of the Castle across Princes Gardens but it was too wet to really appreciate it from under the brolly. We stopped in at a little gift shop cum gallery and found a book about a dragon called Sylvia that was a compulsory purchase.

Then to the top of Victoria Street where E and I had been married in a gorgeous heritage room of the registry office many years ago. The registry office is now a nightclub selling cheap vodka. How the mighty have fallen!

At least Ian Mellors fancy cheese shop hasn't changed. But it was not easy to get into with a stroller.

I love the curves of Victoria Street, though it was no fun walking along this steep street to work when the footpaths were icy.

Another sign of the changes in the area was the fancy coffee shop next to our old front door. Even the colour of the front door had changed from blue to red.

But Helios Fountain is still full of fun gifts for young and old. E and I had a browse for old times sake when we were in the Grassmarket a few days earlier.

We had been to the Last Drop because it is a pub I remember fondly as a place I loved going for a meal or just taking friends for a drink. It was a short walk from our flat and so cosy inside.

It has something for everyone. Mulled wine for me and haggis for E. I had a smaller plate of vegeraian haggis with some creamy tomato soup. E loved the whisky sauce on his haggis, neeps and tatties.

A few days later I found myself there with Yarrow and Mindy. We were all set to try another pub. The menu on the Beehive in the Grassmarket looked interesting. Mindy wanted chips and beer. The Beehive had vegetarian fish and chips which she was up for trying. Yarrow checked we could bring Sylvia in with her stroller. They didn't have a license for children. So we returned to the Last Drop where I knew children were welcome. The barmaid even remembered us and admired Sylvia's paw mittens.

Yarrow and Mindy were not that hungry and we decided to all share a large plate of nachos. I agree on the condition that we had the version with vegetarian haggis. Mindy was horrified at the fusion of cuisines but I was delighted. In fact I am considering having them at New Year's Eve. My photo does not do it justice but the pile of corn chips, salsa, guacamole, jalapenos, sour cream, grated cheese and vegetarian haggis was wonderful.

After our meal we went to the intersection where the Grassmarket becomes the Cowgate and turns up into Candlemaker Row. I love the evocative street names. E called the Cowgate 'the street of shame'. I am not sure why. Possibly because it was a street of too many nightclubs. If you walk to this intersection you will see one of my favourite castle views, looming over the humble dwellings of the Grassmarket.

We walked up Candlemaker Row to the little statue of Greyfriars Bobby. The statue of the little dog who was remembered for his fierce loyalty to his master is very moving.

We wandered into Greyfriars Kirkyard to stroll among the graves. The church was unfortunately closed and I didn't get to have a neb inside. But the graves are amazing both because they give insight into an age many decades ago and they have the beauty of weathered stone. We discussed how you might feel if you had graves against the back of your house. Then we headed off to explore the Museum of Scotland and finish the afternoon at the Elephant House.

I had better finish packing. I'd much rather be blogging but the computer must be packed in suitcases with everything else. Sunny Melbourne, Zinckie cat and home await us.

The Last Drop
74-78 Grassmarket
Edinburgh, EH1 2JR
Tel: 0131 225 4851
Web: http://www.classicpubs.co.uk/thelastdropgrassmarketedinburgh/

David Bann - vegetarian excellence!

When we arrived in Edinburgh we walked through Hunter Square off the Royal Mile and were surprised to see Banns no longer there. Fortunately Jacqueline of Tinned Tomatoes recommended I visit Banns and directed me to where it now resides in St Mary’s Street. Then my friends Yarrow and Mindy arrived in Edinburgh for the weekend and suggested I come to dinner with them at Banns. It was an excellent choice.

How exciting to be out for dinner in the evening! Most of our evenings are spent either visiting E’s folks or at home with Sylvia. I confess to some soapy evenings with East Enders and Coronation Street or a bit of blogging. We are trying to get Sylvia to bed in the evening (although she has recently decided she doesn’t want to be in bed till late). So, we decided E would stay in the apartment with her and I would go out with Yarrow and Mindy.

Now I think I might have been to Banns in Hunter Square before or looked at the menu and not been impressed. It was a bright little café in a prime tourist area. Hence, I was unprepared for the reincarnation, which is called David Bann, being a more upmarket, stylish restaurant. It is painted in dark greys and reds and lit with little fairy lights and candles. A sphere of broken up light is projected onto one wall. Although vegetarian, there are no hippie undertones. There are no pretty Christmas lights such as the ones I passed on the walk down Royal Mile. This is the haunt of serious diners.

Mindy quite rightly commented that the food was some of the best presented vegetarian food she had come across. I am sorry that in the dim light my photos don't do it justice. The menu was a tyranny of choice (with no vegetarian lasagne or haggis in sight). It is always a treat to go to a vegetarian restaurant and not be confined to the grudging vegetarian choice on the menu. It also means that sharing is an easy option. We decided to begin with two starters between the three of us.

I loved the fried smoked tofu which had been marinated and served with a plum sauce. Yaz thought the lettuce rose garnish worthy of photographing. Its simplicity was a great way to start. I was less keen on the Thai fritters made of smoked tofu, which were just that bit too spicy for my liking, though I did enjoy the banana chutney and plum sauce accompanying them.

We ordered different mains and were able to try each others'. Mindy ordered the Roast Aubergine Chickpea Cake with Mash and Gravy and Yarrow ordered the Tart of Jerusalem Artichoke and Celeriac. Both tasted lovely but quite hearty and rich. My favourite, fortunately, was my choice of the Beetroot, Spinach and Dunsyre Blue Timbale.

Now timbales make me think of earnest 1970s vegetarian cookbooks with faded pictures of virtuously healthy food on chunky stoneware dinner plates. Once I overcame this prejudice I was delighted to discover how delicious they can be. Surprisingly at home in sophisticated modern vegetarian cookery. But I think my meal was one where the sum is greater than the parts. Just my kind of thing - lots of complimentary colours and flavours.

The timbale in question was a souffle (cooked in a timbale mould) of beetroot and blue cheese with a topping of spinach and nutmeg. It was served on a wedge of polenta and accompanied with buttered cabbage, roasted swede. My only quibble was that I would have liked the swede roasted a little more. But it was superb. I had a glass of velvety Argentinian Merlot to drink with it (Michel Torino, Cafayate Valley, 2008).

Mindy and Yarrow were too full for dessert but I eat out infrequently enough in the evening that I could justify the indulgence. I passed up the hot pear and passion fruit tart in favour of the dark chocolate souffle. I think my dining companions were pleased just to look at the gorgeous presentation. It tasted as good as it looked. The souffle was rich with a fluffy texture. The vanilla ice cream with white chocolate sauce lightened the intense flavours.

So I will highly recommend David Bann to anyone - vegetarian or not - living in or passing through Edinburgh. It is one of the best meals I have had during our visit here. We are heading home tomorrow so I might squeeze in another entry before packing the laptop but I must attend to so packing now.

David Bann
56-58 St Mary's Street,
Edinburgh, EH1 1SX
(Off the Royal Mile and the Cowgate)
Tel: 0131 556 5888
Email: info@davidbann.co.uk
Web: http://www.davidbann.com/

Leftovers pasta bake

It doesn't take long to build up scraps and pieces in the kitchen that need using. We have tried not to let the kitchen get too full of food that we wont have time to use while we are staying in the Edinburgh apartment. Last week I made a pasta bake out of leftovers and quirky purchases.

It was fairly easy though I could only find a big salad bowl to mix it in. It was more rich and creamy than necessary but very tasty. I would probably not make it exactly like this again but if I did I would possibly use other vegetables than green beans - maybe mushrooms and broccoli.

There is not much more to tell you about the pasta bake. I could tell you lots about our holiday if only Sylvia would sleep. We are continuing to have a wonderful time. I am eating well, hardly cooking and enjoying seeing Sylvia playing with her cousins and grandparents. We have caught up with a few friends but not as many as we would like. But I thought I would show you some of the cards from the christening and otherwise to show how generous so many have been with us.

We have also received many presents but I wanted to point out one today. Sylvia's new green giraffe which was not only sent by Lysy of Munchkin Mail but also knitted by her. I am in awe at her 3D knitting skills. Isn't it gorgeous? A big thanks goes out to Lysy. The giraffe is being named Munchkin in her honour!

I must go as there are lots of things to do and Sylvia still is not sleeping. We only have a few days to go in Edinburgh but I still have lots of places to write up so stay tuned!

Leftovers pasta bake
Serves 4

• 250g dried spaghetti
• 1 cauliflower, trimmed and chopped
• 200g dwarf beans, trimmed and chopped
• 125g double cream
• 250g bottled tomato pasta sauce
• 140g pouch of vegetable and lentil baby food
• 400g tin of black beans, drained and rinsed
• 150g grated cheddar cheese
• 1 piece of bread grated into crumbs

Bring salted water to the boil and place spaghetti and cauliflower in it. Simmer for about 5 minutes and then add dwarf beans. Keep simmering for about 5 minutes or till spaghetti is cooked.

Meanwhile place cream, pasta sauce, baby food, black beans and 100g of cheese in a large bowl and mix. When spaghetti and vegetables are cooked, drain and mix with the sauce in the bowl.

Either set aside remaining cheese and breadcrumbs or stir into pasta mixture. Scrap pasta mixture into a large baking tray (I used a round 23cm baking dish with half the mixture over two nights). Bake for about 25 minutes at 180 C if you have a powerful oven like the one we are using at present.

On the Stereo:
Fourteen Autums and Fifteen Winters: Twilight Sad

North Berwick - Tiffany's Tea Room

On Tuesday, we put Sylvia into her cosy teddy bear suit again and took the train to chilly North Berwick. Not to be confused with Berwick-upon-Tweed on the border of Scotland and England, North Berwick is a formerly fashionable seaside town east of Edinburgh, which nowadays is prime commuter belt real estate. E visited North Berwick each summer as a child and has fond memories of these day.

I have been there quite a few times since I met E but rather than playing on rocks and staying in guesthouses, my memories focus on gift shops and marvelling at how different the British seaside looks to our Australian seaside towns.

I am also fond of a town that has a Melbourne Place and a Melbourne Road. (NB Edinburgh used to have a Melbourne Place on the corner of the High Street and George IV Bridge but the ugly old 197os building has been replaced with a new hotel and the name seems to have gone.)

When we arrived we wandered through the town admiring the buildings and browsing in giftshops on the High Street. Unfortunately our first stop at the Westgate Gallery was too early for lunch but my parents-in-law tell us it is a lovely place for a bite.

Soon after we were looking for a place to eat and stopped at Tiffany's Tea Room. We were initially attracted by the candles and old sewing machines in the window but inside were impressed by the warm red colour on the walls and the light and space created by the mirrors. A large festive wreath hung in the middle of the ceiling among the chandeliers.

The soup of the day was tomato and basil. I asked if there were cheese scones to have with it. No cheese scones today, only plain or cherry or raisin, I was told. I asked for a plain scone with cheese and the owner looked at me in bemusement but brought out a large warm scone with a little container of grated cheese. The soup was lovely - simple and tasty. It came with a little jug of cream on the side. E had a tuna toastie with salad.

We both ordered a pot of tea. I loved the list of speciality teas with names such a cuddly tummy and apple strudel. I had peppermint and was pleased it was loose tea rather than a tea bag. The tea was poured into elegant floral bone china cups with saucers. We shared a millionaire's shortbread to have for afters. It was a large slab that tasted rather good. E told me it was the nicest he had had for ages and he didn't like Australian millionaire's shortbread any more.

Satisfied with our lunch, we found the baby change room at the very nice public toilets (that even have an attendant there) in Quality Street. The name says it all really! You can view North Berwick Law from this street. This is a hill with whale bones on top of it. I am not sure why but I think it has to do with local maritime history.

Then we strolled down to the Scottish Seabird Centre. You only have to take a look at a door knocker shaped like an anchor or notice wee Puffin Cottage - it is the small one in the photo - and you feel the presence of the sea without even viewing it.

I am not sure I have ever been inside the seabird centre but it has nice tea rooms (again according to my in-laws), a good gift shop and fine sculptures outside such as this one. The harbour is also worth a look. The thought of swimming in the old pool, which is now a carpark, gives me the shivers on a cold day. E found it so cold on Tuesday that his fingers were icy beneath his gloves. My hands were ok without gloves but maybe it was all the snapping away on my camera that kept my fingers warm.

From there, we walked around the beach to E's rocks. They are the ones he loved playing on as a boy. You have a great view of Bass Rock from them, as you can see in the top photo. It is impossible to be in North Berwick and not see Bass Rock. It is so iconic that even if you do not see it from the shore, you will probably see it on a souvenir somewhere in the town. In fact, it is on every postcard that E's family send him when they holiday in North Berwick each summer.

Tiffany's Tea Room
21 High Street
North Berwick

Edinburgh Castle: Queen Anne Cafe

On 30 November we queued to enter Edinburgh Castle and were delighted to find entry was free because it was St Andrew's Day. When I first visited the Castle I had a fairy tale notion of a castle as one building and was quite surprised to find it is actually a complex of buildings more akin to a small village. A few visits later, I enjoy wandering about the buildings and exploring the many layers of history.

This is the best place for views of Edinburgh. The Castle is visible from many points in Edinburgh and building regulations have done well in keeping it as one of the tallest buildings in the city centre. Even the flat we lived in before we left Edinburgh had a wonderful view of the Castle. I always loved seeing the sheer cliffs upon which it was built.

We were lucky to be there on a clear day and could see far out to the Kingdom of Fife across the Firth of Forth. Here is the view of Calton Hill and Waverley Train Station.

The castle is heavily armed with cannons that would have fired upon any invading enemies.

The oldest building in the complex is St Margaret's Chapel. This tiny building dates back to the twelfth century. It has beautiful stained glass windows and very little room for weddings, which as you can imagine are very popular.

I love all the little details around the castle. E laughed at the sign for the New Barracks which were built in 1796-1799. He commented on how ideas of old and new are different in Scotland to those in Australia. Here is a close up of the detail on ye olde drainpipes. I wish we had drainpipes like this in Australia!

We visited the war memorial where Sylvia's happy laugh rang out loudly. Coming out into the Crown Square we decided it was time for lunch and ignored the Crown Jewels in favour of the Queen Anne Cafe.

We were seated in an area that was once a narrow outdoor path between buildings. It is now a warm enclosed area. A large skylight ceiling makes it feel light and airy despite the grey old stone walls. A Christmas tree in the walkway adds some festive colour to the area.

We had a variety of menus to choose from - the carvery, the Christmas or the cafe. We still hadn't had any haggis so we both chose to have the carvery menu so we could have haggis, neeps and tatties. (That is one of Sylvia's mittens, which she wore while walking around the castle because it was so cold. Putting the mittens on her took enough energy to warm anyone!)

My vegetarian haggis was so peppery that it was hard to taste it properly but I enjoyed it with the sweet neeps (turnips to a Scot and swede or rutabaga to others) and creamy tatties (or potato). The potato had sat a bit long in the bain marie but was still nice as part of the meal.

I took a photo of E's meat haggis to show how similar the carnivore and vegetarian versions are. I did see the beans in mine so it was possible to tell them apart.

For dessert E had the cranachan brulee with winter fruit. He thought it superb. I had a taste and it was indeed very creamy and nicely flavoured.

I was tempted by the clementine and gingerbread trifle but instead chose the baked apple and scotch fudge pie. It was a cold apple pie topped with a toffee flavoured cream. It was a bit cold for my liking but I enjoyed the creamy topping even if it wasn't quite as dense as I had expected of fudge in a pie.

You will see Sylvia's paws again in the photo. These mittens went very well with her cosy teddy bear suit that she wore around the castle. Her Scottish Gran had bought her a couple of warm suits because Scotland is indeed colder than a Melbourne winter, especially on the castle ramparts. We walked out of the cafe back into the cold air, pleased to have had haggis at the Castle on St Andrew's Day.

Queen Anne Cafe
Crown Square
Edinburgh Castle
Castlehill
Edinburgh
Website: http://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/index/plan/essentials/cafes.htm

Edinburgh Winter Wonderland

When we decided to visit Edinburgh in late November, I was excited at the opportunity to visit the German markets, which are part of the Edinburgh Christmas. When we lived here, I loved to go along to the brightly lit cluster of stalls and have a mug of mulled wine and a slice of stollen.

After Sylvia’s christening, we went along with Chris, Fergal and Dash, who were visiting from Ireland. We caught the bus to the Princes Gardens and Chris tried to stop Dash from grabbing at Sylvia (a natural reaction of an older cousin to the younger one – it is what Sylvia tries to do when playing with wee Florence, her younger cousin in Scotland).
It is eight years since we had last visited the markets and we were surprised at how they have grown. Last weekend was the first after the markets opened this year and they were heaving with crowds. I was surprised at all the fast food stalls that have sprung up at Christmas in this part of the Princes Gardens. The Big Wheel is still there as is the ice rink. I love the ferris wheel which gives wonderful views of Edinburgh, especially the nearby Walter Scott Memorial but I still shiver in horror at my memory of my one and only attempt at ice skating.

We found ourselves a spot to rest our drink and E went off with Fergal to order some mulled wine or gluhwein. The warm spicy drink is wonderful in cold weather (and there is a non-alcoholic version but I haven't tried it yet). Once you have finished your drink you can return your mug and get your deposit refunded or you can choose to take it home as a souvenir.

But there was no sign of the slice of stollen that had always accompanied the mulled wine. There were donuts and strudel, chips and gingerbread but no stolen. Finally I stopped at one of the stalls selling loaves of stollen and asked them to slice one up for me. I was determined to get my stollen and it was worth the effort. I love the marzipan centre in the yeasted fruit bread. It goes so well with mulled wine and seems so festive.

Once we had finished our wine, we browsed the market stalls, which have lots of interesting Christmas decorations. We particularly liked the little houses, which are so festive, especially when a candle is lit inside them. Nutcrackers, Christmas tree decorations and toys are also found alongside the German baked goods.

After browsing the stalls, we needed a cup of tea to warm us up. Chris and Fergal found the Scottish weather very cold and the babies needed feeding. We decided to stop at the nearby Scottish National Gallery café and restaurants. It seemed many others also had the idea to stop at the café which has one of the best views of the Christmas Winter Wonderland. We had to wait in queue for a seat. (Enough time for Fergal to run up the mound to take a look at the Witchery.) However the maitre d’ was most obliging, which made it more bearable.

E chose fish and chips which came with mushy peas but were done very nicely. Chris had one of the cheese plates. I can’t remember which one but she was most pleased with it so I am showing you this blurry picture above. I tasted a few samples and can vouch for the fine cheeses.

I chose the soup of the day and a cheese scone. They told me it was cauliflower and, although it was delicious, it tasted like lentil more than cauliflower but I never got a chance to check with the staff. I was glad to have my soft scone as the bread with the soup wasn't too flash. It was a simple but warming meal.

Chris and Fergal sat in seats overlooking the large windows and were most impressed with the view of the Christmas lights, glowing more brightly as the afternoon darkened. All too soon they had to go for their bus to the airport but it was a lovely afternoon with them and we look forward to seeing them in the warmer days of the Australian summer soon. Meanwhile, we headed home with some stollen, lebkuchen and a little house.

The Scottish Café and Restaurant
National Gallery of Scotland
The Mound, Edinburgh, EH2 2EL
Telephone: 0131 226 6524
Web: http://www.thescottishcafeandrestaurant.com/

Christening Cake

We held Sylvia’s christening in Edinburgh on the weekend. I do not advise planning a christening over the other side of the world. It is a stressful business and you need a very helpful sister-in-law to pull it off. But if you do attempt such an event, I highly recommend making Nigella Lawson’s Nutella Cake for the occasion.

We decided a long time ago that it would be nice to hold Sylvia’s christening in Edinburgh to include her Scottish relatives and family friends in a significant event in her life. Not having been in Scotlnd for a few years, it was also a good opportunity to catch up with everyone. Fortunately a family friend, Fr Robin, helped us arrange the christening and E’s sister HH helped organize refreshments afterwards.

So on Saturday, we dressed Sylvia in her tartan dress, stripey purple tights and white crocheted cardigan and took her to the church. It was quite an overwhelming occasion to see so many faces we had not seen for years but so lovely that many could come to meet Sylvia and be part of her special day.

I was pleased to have some family present because my sister Chris came from Dublin with her partner, Fergal and little boy, Dash. It was fun to see the two babies meeting for the first time. Dash has a cheeky grin and made many attempts to grab at his little cousin, Sylvia. She also made a grab or two for him but his hair isn’t as long as mine so it doesn’t make for such enjoyable tugging!

The church is a beautiful nineteenth century building near where we are staying. It has recently been renovated and has warm red walls and colourful stained glass windows. The service, conducted by Fr Robin, was lovely and welcoming. I loved how he encouraged us to eat together as a family and live a life of justice and peace. E's childhood friend, Douglas, played guitar and his nephew Barney filled the font with water. Sylvia was well behaved with only a small cry when the water trickled over her hair.

Afterwards we went to the Braidburn Inn for refreshments. The sausage rolls and sandwiches were said to be very good. I enjoyed a bit of quiche but was too busy to eat much. The food was very good and the staff were just great. Nothing was a problem for them.

I took along a chocolate cake because it seemed the easiest way to ensure we had the sort of cake I wanted there. Chris and I cut it into slices and passed it around with a little jug of cream. By the end of the cake, the slices were very thin but I was impressed that we were able to serve it up to about 30 adults plus kids. It was well received with E’s nephew Barney declaring it to be the best chocolate cake. Now there is a kid with good taste.

It is a sign of how well-stocked our apartment is that I was able to bake this cake with ease. I liked the recipe because even though I could not find ground hazelnuts, the ingredients were easy to find and buy without having lots leftover. The fan forced oven was a joy to bake in and I enjoyed using old fashioned egg beaters to beat the egg whites.

For the decoration, I made grubs because they are a sentimental favourite with my family and I bought berries. The berries are not local – having been flown in from South Africa, Mexico and Spain – but the extravagance seemed justified for a special event. (Although HH told me that berries on the cake spoilt the calorific feast.) Such a simple and delicious way to make a cake look amazing, helped along by a cheap plate from the supermarket.

I was really pleased with the final cake and just a little sad not to have any leftovers to take home.

Nigella’s Nutella Cake
From Nigella’s Website or How to be a Domestic Goddess

• 100g dark chocolate, melted
• 125g soft unsalted butter
• 400g Nutella (1 large jar)
• 100g ground hazelnuts (I used ground almonds)
• 1 tablespoon Frangelico, rum or water (I used baby puree)
• 6 large eggs, separated
• pinch of salt

To decorate:

• 125ml double cream
• 100g dark chocolate
• Berries (I used raspberries, blackberries and blueberries)
  
• Grubs or other truffles (mine were the size of a cherry)

Preheat the oven to 180ºC and grease and line a 23cm round springform cake tin.

Melt chocolate in the microwave and set aside to cool slightly. In a large bowl beat together butter and nutella till creamy. Add frangelico (or liquid of your choice), egg yolks and hazelnuts. Then mix in the melted chocolate.

Beat the egg whites and salt in a large bowl (I used a medium one and it was ok but a large bowl would be better as the egg whites expand with beating) until soft peaks appear. Stir a spoonful of egg white into the chocolate mixture, being as rough as you like. Then gently fold in the remaining egg whites, a third at a time.

Pour mixture into prepared tin and bake for 40 minutes. It is ready when the cake is coming away from the sides but this cake is better a little underbaked and fudgy in the centre than too dry. Cool cake in tin.

To decorate: Nigella suggests leaving the base of the springform tin on the bottom when decorating but I was able to remove mine. When cool, I made chocolate ganache by melting the chocolate with the cream and cooling a little. Then I spread it over the cake and down the sides. I arranged grubs around the bottom and the top of the cake. When ready to serve the next day, we arranged berries on top with a dusting of icing sugar.

On the Stereo:
Forever: Dame Shirley Bassey (free with the Daily Mail)