After we visited the Vegemite Museum and Creswick in August, we drove on to Clunes. Of all the places I had wanted to see, Clunes was the most special to me. After spending time researching my great grandfather, it was special to be in the town where he grew up. It is no longer the mining town that he knew as a youngster. The the above impressive Clunes South Primary School building (above) is still there to make me proud of his association with the town. This was our first port of call.
The Lee Medlyn Home of Bottles Collection (70 Bailey Street): The old school, built in 1880, now houses this bottle museum. It arose out of Lee Medlyn's collection and now has over 6 thousand old bottles. It doesn't sound that interesting but we were pleasantly surprised. The museum is creative in the way it displays all the bottles and provides the insight into bottles I never knew I needed.
Clunes has a special place in the history of Australian gold mining because it was the site of Victoria's first registered gold discovery in 1850. The museum has a darkened faux-rock tunnel you can walk through with displays of life during the gold rush dimly lit to imitate conditions down the mines. My great grandfather came to Clunes to mine gold so I really enjoyed this evocative display.
A school room is set up with a display or ink bottles, old wooden desks, a blackboard and a diorama of a gold town. This reflects the Clunes gold-mining township from the 1870s when the school building built. I also really loved the wall of artwork by Clunes Primary School children in 2008.
We could not resist writing on the blackboard as had many other tourists before us. In looking back, I realise that kids these days don''t have blackboards with dusty erasers that teachers throw at kids who aren't listening!
The diorama showed pride in Clunes' mining past. It made me a little proud of my great grandfather who had hope for a new life in a new country full of gold! The shops on the main street look so little compared to the mine snaking underneath it.
The above photo is a close up of the tiny details right down to the cat gazing up at the tall poppet head. This was the framework at the top of the mineshaft. In school we were taught that at first miners just used pans or cradles but as the surface gold grew harder to find, companies got more sophisticated in the gold mining techniques, as you can see in the photo.
Between its past life as a primary school and present life as a bottle museum, the building housed a knitting mill. The mill, which started in the school building in 1923, was important to the town when many were leaving as the gold mining dwindled. It lasted for many decades with a handful of different owners. The current museum has a small display of the industrial history of Clunes.
History is also represented in many of the bottle displays. I particularly enjoyed this set up as an old bar with beer taps, glasses and mats in from of a large mirror and of course shelves of old bottles. This represents all the pubs that would have been in Clunes during the gold rush. My favourite bottles in this room were the Vintage Soda Siphon/Seltzer Bottles with Wire Mesh and the fish shaped bottle.
There were stories of Lee Medlyn's collection of bottles that was behind the museum, including some of his finds such as the old stock at a chemist. There were tales of other finds. However one noticed warned us to leave old bottles where they were found so that archeologists could understand the context of artifacts.
Clay bottles were fired in a kiln with a salt glaze. The manufacture of clay bottles was outlawed in the mid Nineteenth Century because it was impossible to see if the contents of the opaque bottles were contaminated..
The elegantly thin old salad dressing bottles were presented in a way that made me marvel at their beauty. Or perhaps they just looks so lovely compared to our chunky bottles that salad dressing is sold in with their loud clamouring labels.
There was much to learn about the history of bottles. The discovery of how to make clear glass was followed by solving the problem of ink fading in a clear bottle. Jacob Schweppes' brilliant idea in 1792 to keep air in water, despite not being able to keep the gas in a bottle. Hiram Codd winning the British Post Office award for inventing a bottle that would stand up and keep gas in the bottle that kept the water fizzy. These bottle resulted in the Australian companies beginning to produce aerated water in 1873.
Not only were there pages here and there about the history and science of glass but there were also some really cool heritage labels on these beautiful bottles. While I love history, Sylvia's passion is for the beautiful coloured glass. There were so many amazing shaped and coloured bottles as you can see above. Sylvia loved the coloured bottles so much that she bought one from the shelves of bottles for sale by the counter.
We spent so long at the bottle museum that we didn't have time for the Clunes Museum in the main street. (see the building with substantial verandah on the left of the above photo.) That will have to wait for another visit.
Cafe 52 (52 Fraser Street): We were too tired for the museum but ready for some food. So instead we headed to Cafe 52 for lunch. It was good to rest our feet. By then it was was after 2pm and the cafe was fairly empty. It was so lovely to sit in the quiet and admire the archways, wooden furniture, exposed brickwork and greenery.
The drinks were as good as any you can find in inner city Melbourne cafes. We ordered drinks. Sylvia had an iced soy blueberry matcha. It came in pretty layers and was an amazing blue when she stirred them together, as you can see below. I had a wonderfully refreshing Fever Tree ginger beer.
Our meals were excellent too. I had the Green Bowl with quinoa, avocado, spinach, roasted sweet potato, grilled broccoli, pickled onion, and house-made hummus. All these vegetables were exactly what I needed. Such a good meal. And so beautiful and colourful.
The soup of the day was leek and potato. Like my meal it was presented with style and tasted lovey. Sylvia was delighted.
By the time we left, the cafe was closing. It quite a big space. In addition to the tables and chairs we sat on with the long view of the cafe, there were old leather armchairs by the brick fireplace and a long communal table complete with globe of the world and a Swiss cheese plant. This was the pick of the cafes in Clunes and would no doubt fill up earlier in the day.
Clunes Shopping: After lunch we enjoyed a little bit of wandering around the shops. The
I quite enjoyed the many rooms of Timeless Harmony (65 Fraser Street) across the road from Cafe 52. It had a delightful abundance of bric a brac, clothes, jewellery, books, crockery, candles, cushions, garden pots and decorations.
In the above photo you can see some of the offerings of Opsessed - best second hand shop name (55 Fraser Street). It is a treasure trove of eclectic and whimsical bric a brac crammed into the an attractive display. I loved the vintage dressers full of retro and fun gifts.
While Sylvia was looking at the shops, I had a walk along the main drag, called Fraser St. Clunes time of neglect when the gold started to run out meant that the heritage facade of this street is pretty much intact. Many vintage shopfronts and the below grand buildings. Above is the Madam Saddler Guest House that looked very impressive from the outside. Maybe we will stay there one day. Then we were ready to set out on the 2 hours drive home.
We will be back to Clunes. Maybe I will even get along to the Clunes Booktown Festival one year. At one stage in Clunes' history it was in steep decline. Today, many years many after gold was discovered here, it is impressive that this little country town is thriving with magnificent heritage buildings, great museums, good food and excellent shopping.
More from the our roadtrip:
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