Code Black: Brunswick cafe

After my first visit to Code Black, my overwhelming impression was of good food in a black setting that reminded more of a corporate hotel.  I returned for the food.  Often as a vegetarian, I feel most of the effort goes into the meat and my options are less impressive.  Not so here.  Over three visits, the meals have been inspirational and of a high quality.

Code Black has served me dishes that are surprising, light and satisfying.   I don't imagine I would find these dishes in any other cafe nor is it likely I would make them at home.  On my first visit I had a stack of zucchini, almond and chia fritters with corn salsa, avocado and coriander.  (No egg on top for me.)  It delighted me because it was so light and fresh and full of vegetables.  I even enjoyed the coriander, which is not normally my herb of choice.

I found the staff very friendly on this visit.  I had just bought a Shirley Barber children's book and was leafing through it while I waited for my meal.  My waitress stopped and talked to me about how she used to love Shirley Barber books as a little girl.  As I left I admired the cakes but I had eaten my fill.

After talking to E about Code Black he was intrigued to try it.  We have had a few trips down to Barkly Square (fondly known as Squarkly Bear) recently because we have bought new bikes for Sylvia and me.  Sylvia outgrew her bike and mine just grew old.

Sylvia had a berry smoothie and a crumpet with honey.  I was impressed with the smoothie because it was really fruity and not terribly sweet.  (I often find smoothies in cafes more milk than fruit and too sweet.)  The crumpet (which is only on the children's menu) seemed home made and was lovely.

E had a croissant with butter and jam with a coffee.  He reported very favourably on his brunch.  I chose the Brunswick ploughman’s lunch.  I have had a few ploughman's lunches in my time but never one like this.  It was unusual, different, nice!  And very Middle Eastern.  I chose to have a vegan one, which meant no boiled egg or goats cheese or pastourma (cured meat, I think).  Code Black is quite vegan friendly and actually made substitutions rather than just subtractions.

Above you can see just how laden and colourful my platter was.  My Brunswick Ploughman's consisted of chickpea fritters, pickled cabbage, roasted mushrooms, olives, beetroot dip, grated carrot with cumin, fresh radish, avocado with dukkah, gherkins and home made flatbreads with dukkah.  It was a lively combination of flavours.  The warm spicy flatbread was superb.  The chickpea balls were tiny and a bit dry but they were lovely with the dips.  I also loved the mushrooms and beetroot dip.

We made this visit on a Saturday.  The service was hit and miss on this day.  We had to ask for honey with the crumpet, a knife and a serviette.  Also our water took a while to arrive.  (I had ridden my bike there and was parched.)  However when each of these items was eventually brought to us, they were delivered with a friendly smile.  Before we left a waiter came and asked us how our meal was.

My most recent visit was yet again on a day when Code Black's proximity to Squarkly made it attractive.  I ordered one of the specials: smashed peas with goats cheese, dill and pickled golden beetroot on wholegrain toast.  (Again I didn't have the egg.)  It was another marvellous meal.  The goats cheese was transformed into a tasty creamy sauce that really took the peas to another level.  Could Code Black do no wrong!

Sadly I finally found that not all of their food made me swoon.  I decided I really had to try one of the little round vegan mudcakes.  For research, you understand.  It was disappointing.  Not horrible.  Just too sweet and lacking the density I expect in a mudcake.  So in future I might just stick to their yummier savoury food.

Overall I really loved the food I have eaten at Code Black.  Sadly two things make me less keen to return.  I am not so keen on the dark cave-like interior.  The old warehouse feels more like a nightclub than a cafe.  (If only they had retained more light and exposed bricks like East Elevation!)  And the prices are high.  ($15 for a sandwich with crisps and $16 for a salad)  Granted, there are brilliant ideas and fresh ingredients. And these will keep me coming back.

Code Black
15-17 Weston Street (opposite Barkly Square)
Brunswick 3056
Tel: 03 9381 2330
Open 7am to 5pm
http://codeblackcoffee.com.au/cafe/