Luna Park, Sydney

While in Sydney earlier this month, we were often on ferries passing by Luna Park.  I always admired the location.  Which is why when we left for Sydney I was adamant we would go to the zoo and not Luna Park, but when we were in Sydney we visited Luna Park but not the zoo.  Sometimes proximity is a powerful force.  And it had what was perhaps the best view I have ever seen from a ferris wheel.

Actually we went to Luna Park twice because I was so determined to go on the ferris wheel.  The first time we rushed there and arrived at 4.15pm only to be told that the ferris wheel had closed at 4pm due to a Sunday night ferris wheel dining event.  Argh!  So I refused to buy a ticket for any rides.

However we were able to walk through the amusement park of Luna Park for free so we wandered around, enjoying the view.  Can you see the ferris wheel in front of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  Sydney's Luna Park has had a colourful history since it was built in 1935.  There have been sailors and their girls during World War II, many periods of closure and a campaign to save Luna Park group after deaths in a ghost train fire in 1979.  It seems a miracle it is here and popular today.  By the entrance are photos of the famous Luna Park clown face (based on the design of Melbourne's Luna Park) and how it has changed over the years.  They include a scary photo of the sunken face in the early days when the construction materials weren't so robust.

Sylvia twice threw some balls into the laughing clowns mouths (not the clown bins in the photo above).  Both times she didn't win a prize but was offered a booby prize of a wand or a horn.  The sounds of these annoying horns rang throughout the park.

Sylvia liked the columns in the burger place but we did not stop here.  Instead we had ice cream and sat in a cafeteria where the views of the harbour bridge were obscured by badly placed shutters.  I was most displeased with Luna Park.  In their defence, they have some places to eat with nicer views and fancier food.  Even at the more casual Hungry Horse there were more vegetarian options than I saw at Melbourne's Luna Park.

But as we continued to ferry past Luna Park, we gave it another go the next day, our last in Sydney.  Yes, the lure of the ferris wheel was strong.  This time we didn't have much time but the ferris wheel was going.  I had read online that we could get one ride for $10 each but apparently that must have been outdated information that clogs up the internet.  We purchased two rides for $22 each at the counter (rather than $51 online for unlimited rides).  The woman at the desk really wanted to chat about all the rides but we were short on time.

We queued for the ferris wheel while I watched the time.  Finally we were encased in a pod with bars to keep us safe.  Sylvia appreciated the bars when her We Bare Bears cap was blown off but didn't blow away.  The bars were not so good for taking photos but we managed.  And we could still see the wonderful view through the bars,

Whoever decided to build Luna Park on the Harbourside was a genius.  It is such an amazing location.  Even looking back from the Bridge, the view is spectacular beyond the amusement park with the boats in the harbour.

As the ferris wheel took us round, the view changed.  Above is my favourite view with the "Just for Fun" back of the main gate with the towers built in the form of the art deco Chrysler Building.  Beyond these we could see the Sydney Opera House under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.  It would be an amazing place to watch fireworks over the Harbour.  (Do they allow this?)

We could also see the Carousel.  Outside the Carousel you can see the Luna Park Just for Fun figures entertaining the kids.  The Carousel was our second ride.  Sylvia was very keen so we did this with my eye firmly on the clock.  Then we rushed down to the ferry and got there with 4 minutes to spare.

This is the photo of the ferry from the ferris wheel.  It was only a few minutes to get there.  Then we took our last ferry to Pyrmont Bay, rushed to our hotel, found the light rail was working again to take us to Central Station where we took a train to the airport to fly home.  I was glad to get home but glad we had taken the most amazing ferris wheel ride before leaving Sydney.

Luna Park
1 Olympic Drive, Milsons Point NSW, 2061
Tel: +61 2 9922 6644
Take ferry F4 to Milson's Point
www.lunaparksydney.com

Grounds of Alexandria, Sydney

When we were planning to go to Sydney, a few people recommended the Grounds of Alexandria.  They struggled to explain what it was, as do I.  Think of a place with a few different styles of eating, as in casual outdoor, cafe and restaurant.  Think of the whole complex being presented with such  a contrived composition that it felt like a theme park or a stage set.  I was glad to have visited but I found it so busy and overwhelming that it was hard to know where to look or what to do.

We took the train to Green Square and walked along Bourke Road to the Grounds.  It was the ugliest industrial route to the prettiest place.  When we arrived it had the Mary Poppins theme: a laneway of (plastic) cherry tree blossoms, old street lamps and kites bearing bon mots from the recent movie.  I liked it but this place was popular.  And a popular place in Sydney in January is crazy-busy.  So it was so full of people that it lost some of its appeal.

We had booked lunch at the cafe for 12pm.  And we were late.  Perhaps this accounts for our stressful entry into the place.  It was quite confusing working out where the cafe was.  Then we got into a long queue as there was no one else to ask about our booking.  The place was just so busy.  We really should have got there earlier but as always were trying to fit in too much.  We probably could have got away without booking and waited about 15 minutes in pleasant surroundings but at least the booking got us into the cafe quicker.

Sylvia and I had very different experiences of the food.  Firstly I had a hard time choosing because the "Health Bowls" I wanted had egg as part of the bowl (which I do not like).  The notation next to them said gluten free or dairy free on request but it was not clear that they were also vegan upon request.  The note that they could be veganised was at the top of the page but not next to menu items.  I only noticed it when it was too late.

I had the Garden Bowl (green lentils, zucchini, sprouts, avocado, beets with tahini yoghurt, mixed nuts and vincotto dressing).   On paper it looked promising.  On the table it was pretty but odd.  I was ok with the thin slices of raw beetroot and enjoyed the lentils and nuts.  However I did not like the slices of raw zucchini and was really struggling at the half cooked brussels sprouts.  (I was surprised "sprouts" in a garden bowl meant brussels sprouts and not sprouted legumes.)  I was even more annoyed because we sat by the kitchen and so many of the meals going out looked really good.  So there was a case of order envy going on here as well.  But half cooked brussels sprouts are a real no no!

I also ordered a strawberry, basil and green tea house-made soda.  Mine was a thick juice rather than a bubbly soda infused with these flavours.  It was not what the menu suggested and not what I was after.

So let's turn to Sylvia's more positive experience.  (And I will share some photos of how pretty the cafe was, albeit quite dimly lit in many places).  Sylvia had the kids Fresh Egg Pasta with organic tomato ragout and fresh parmesan.  It was a plain sauce with wheel pasta and she loved it so much she has been raving about it since she got home.

She also ordered the Piggy Piggy Shake.  The menu amused her by claiming "In honour of Kevin “The Big Pig” Bacon, his legacy continues through the power of the shake."  This strawberry milkshake was topped with "a donut, fresh strawberries and a pink piggy meringue" for a pricey $13.50!  Sylvia also loved this with a passion.

And the service was hit and miss.  Some waiters in the cafe were really helpful and others weren't.  However it was so busy that it wasn't so easy to catch someone's eye when we needed help.

After our meal we had some time in the grounds before a cookie decoration workshop at 2pm that I booked for Sylvia.  We admired the giant lollypops and candy canes.  Part of me loved how they looked and part of me felt it was too much unnecessary plastic.

We looked at the food carts outside the cafe.  As with everywhere else in this place, they were beautifully presented down to every last detail.

We admired the cakes on display.  They were so prettily decorated that we needed to exercise restraint not to buy any.

And then because it was a really hot day and I wanted a more refreshing drink I bought a cup of old fashioned lemonade from this food cart.  It was exactly what I wanted.  I also thought it might cool Sylvia in the heat.

We visited Harry Trotter the pig who has replaced Kevin Trotter.  He sit in his water for a while, ran around his little house and then hid under some hay.  Poor wee piggy was feeling the heat.

The Grounds had lots of lovely green spaces with fans and mist keeping them cool.  I was glad to see one of these spaces set up for the cookie decorating workshop.  The workshop was run by enthusiastic young people but it was really an opportunity for kids to have a go at piping buttercream  icing of different colours rather than giving any guidance on decorations.  Sylvia is at a stage where she could have done with some guidance or even some icing that held its shape better.  I guess the warm day did not help the icing set.  Note that the picture above was taken before everyone was invited to the table and it was actually really busy.

One of the best things about the workshop was that it was the last of the day so they were very generous with the icing and cookies.  When Sylvia found that the icing wasn't behaving as she expected, I had a go and then she tried some different designs. We got to take cookies home to the hotel but they were already a bit worse for wear as the icing didn't hold its shape.

I would return to the Grounds of Alexandria but only at a quieter and cooler time of year.  On a hot busy day it was just overwhelming.  It is such a huge place that it would be good for group bookings.  I think knowing the place a bit better would also make it a better visit.  If only I had realised that I could have bought some artisan bread at the bakery, I would have enjoyed some back at the hotel.

Grounds of Alexandria
Building 7A, 2 Huntley St,
Alexandria, NSW, 2015
Tel: +61 (2) 9699 2225
thegrounds.com.au

Harrys Cafe de Wheels, Darling Harbour, Sydney

While we were in Sydney there were lots of summer events on offer.  I was pleased to find that one of the outdoor cinemas was quite close to our hotel in Darling Quarter and would fill in the time until fireworks in Darling Harbour.  We rushed out to the cinema and didn't have time to get food so I went to get some from Harry's Cafe de Wheels once we were settled in front of the film. 

I discovered that Darling Quarter is just a few minutes walk under the overpasses at the south of Darling Harbour.  We walked from our hotel and enjoyed the relaxed holiday feeling of families being out late on a balmy evening.  Many children were playing in the ankle deep watery expanses of Tumbalong Park.  We had to hurry on and find the screen for the open air cinema to see Coco.  We were a little late and then I had to rush off to find us some food.

There were quite a lot of casual cafes but huge queues everywhere.  Everyone else wanted to eat.  I wanted to try Harry's Cafe de Wheels.  The name sounded familiar and when I got home I found it was indeed a legendary cafe in Sydney.  The original cafe was actually a pie cart in the Woolloomooloo naval dockyard that was opened in 1938 y Harry Edwards.  A precursor of the food truck!

I had noticed Harry's Cafe de Wheels on the way and went back.  I had no delusions about its old fashioned values.  In fact, it was with some trepidation that I asked for a vegetarian pie.  The staff were pleasant but the pie had to be heated up.  I waited another 10 minutes after standing in queue for a long time.  But it sure beat going to MacDonalds!

By the time I got back to the movie, I had missed half - which was a shame as it was enjoyable.  But I really enjoyed my pie.  I had a vegetarian pie with potato, peas and corn in a cheese sauce.  By itself it would be ordinary.  (There are far better vegetarian pies to be had and the pastry was good but not amazing.)  But with mash, mushy peas and gravy on top, it was great.  With those towering topping I needed a fork to eat it.  However it was a pretty stodgy dinner.  Not quite as stodgy as the guy after me who ordered chips with mash and gravy on them!

Sylvia was happy to have chips and coke.  She had eaten a pretty decent lunch and we were on holiday! After the movie finished, she enjoyed wading in the water.  I watched as crowds made their way to Darling Harbour for the fireworks.

So it was no surprise to see that Darling Harbour was crowded with people waiting to see the fireworks display that is held on Saturday nights in January.  The Sydney Festival had an area of "moon drops" big waterfilled rubber discs, a bit like water beds, that we watched the kids bouncing on during the day.  Sylvia had a quick bounce and we sat on a moon drop to watch the fireworks.  It was impressive and loud (but too much for my camera).

We were really happy with our evening out.  Not even Sylvia's ill fated attempt to walk in the spiral fountain that resulted in bruised feet could dampen our spirits and we walked back to our hotel that evening!

Harry's Cafe de Wheels
ICC Sydney
14 Darling Drive, Darling Harbour
by Tumbalong Park
www.harryscafedewheels.com.au

Sydney, Harbour, Aquarium, QVB etc

We arrived home from Sydney a few days ago.  We had a pleasant 4 nights there with lots of time on the harbour.  I have never spent so much time by the water on any previous visits.  Visiting Sydney during the school holidays meant crowds.  More surprisingly it meant clouds but we were happy to escape the heat wave in Melbourne.  We had a lot to do and did not need heat-induced lethargy.

I booked the Oaks Goldsborough Hotel in near Darling Harbour.  It was a quick trip from Central Station on the Light Rail.  Unfortunately we were there on the weekend when track works were happening and had to go a more tortuous route in the buses.  And then we had to ask 3 times to work out how to find a shortcut through the huge carpark.  It took us longer to find walkways to connect our hotel to Darling Harbour.

But I chose this hotel partly because I am a sucker for old warehouses.  This old warehouse turned into a hotel was surrounded by creepy trees that grew over the road.

Inside the hotel walkway was framed by sturdy wooden beams such as might have once held up an old warehouse.  I really liked how spacious it was compared to the usual poky hotel corridors.

Our room was quite small and lacking a lounge chair or any sort but it had a kitchen and a balcony that we could use for most breakfasts and dinners.  We were never about for lunches.  We were also pretty tired most evenings but one evening we had energy to go down and enjoy the pool and spa at the hotel.

On our first day, having found our hotel, we made our way around Darling Harbour, up some steps over a freeway, under a freeway and down a steep ramp to find the Queen Victoria Building.  It is an magnificent building that is worth seeing just for the architecture.  The construction of this Romaneque Revival building was completed in 1898.  Today it is restored with elegant arches, lead lighting, and mosaic tiles.

We spent some time in the City Toys and Treasures, an excellent toy shop on the top floor.  But Sylvia was hungry so we had some mediocre baked potatoes for a late lunch.

Then went to the Old Vienna Coffee Shops to share an overpriced but delicious slice of New York cheesecake at $14.10.  It make me think of my sister exclaiming how expensive Sydney is.

Our closest ferry stop was Pyrmont Bay.  It was only about 10 minutes walk by Darling Harbour past the Maritime Museum.  This above Welcome Wall was part of the museum to list migrants who arrived by boat.  When we had time I stopped to read snippets of migrants stories.

We counted that over 4 days we made 11 ferry trips.  On previous trips I have usually made one or less ferry trips.  Our ferry from Pyrmont Bay took us by Luna Park, under the Sydney Harbour Bridge between the Opera House and The Rocks to Circular Quay.  What a fantastic view each day!

As we looked around the Harbour at the mansions and flats overlooking the bridge and opera house I wondered if those with a very amazing view ever get tired of looking at it.

There was a series of astronaut statues around Barangaroo Wharf where we stopped each day on the other side of Darling Harbour.  The photo does not show the perspective.  This statue above was twice as tall as an average person.  The name Barangaroo was fun to say and then we discovered she was the wife of Bennelong.  Bennelong was a local Indigenous man who was kidnapped by Governor Arthur Phillip who wanted to learn about Indigenous life.  (The Sydney Opera House is on Bennelong Point.)

This sculpture saying simply "ALWAYS" intrigued me.  We only ever saw it from the ferry but I would have loved to walk around it.  I read it is there for this January as part of the Sydney Festival.  It is a 28 metre sculpture by Aboriginal artist/designer, Jacob Nash, that alludes to the Aboriginal slogan "Always was, always will be Aboriginal land".  It is good to have reminders of Sydney's Aboriginal past.

Here is the view coming into Circular Quay with the ferries dwarfed by the skyscrapers.  We took many more trips on the ferry than the train.  I am very fond of the Sydney circle train that goes around the city to beautiful early 20th Century stations.  But I have spent enough time on trains and will again on other trips.

We sailed past the Opera House many times.  Only once did we find time to walk around to look at it up close.  I wish we had had more time and Sylvia had been less tired.  At least we got to climb up the back steps and look at the tiles up close.  It is such an Australian icon, and yet like the Bridge, I still find it stunning to look at over and over.

When we were in Sydney in March last year, it was a far more fleeting visit but we did find time to visit the Aquarium on Darling Harbour.  This year Sylvia was keen to go again.  It was good going after being there so recently and knowing what to expect and what we could just skip past.  She did not enjoy the tunnels with fish swimming around us last time.  This time she managed to enjoy them for a while.

She really loved the dugong.  I still think it a shame that we see the dugong before we read about it later in the exhibition.  The Dugong is called Pig and was brought to the Aquarium after being rescued and unable to survive in the wild.  He seems very calm and lovely as he glides through the water.

But once the stingrays started floating overhead Sylvia had had enough and sat outside while I finished enjoying standing with the fish floating around me. I find it fascinating to be able to look up and see the stingrays faces.  I also enjoyed watching the clown fish (hello Nemo) darting around the sea anemone.  But it is not fun trying to get a clear photo.

Sylvia sat out of the shark tunnels altogether, even though a friendly staff member informed her that they were grey nurse sharks that did not have any interest in humans and could only be bothered eating sick or old fish.  Really, the sharks did look quite gormless as they drifted around the tunnels looking like they did not have a clue what was going on.

And here are some of the yachts in the harbour.  It was interesting to get a glimpse of the watery side to Sydney.  And the wealth.  We saw many boats speeding about or just bobbing at anchor to remind us of all the people who enjoy being on the water in Sydney.  Though Melbourne has a seaside culture it is far smaller than in Sydney and well away from where we live.

When we were only in Sydney overnight last year, it seemed too short.  I hoped hoped a longer trip would give us more time to enjoy the city.  However it still feels like everyday was a long day exploring (yielding 500 plus photos) and yet after 5 days we still had only scratched the surface and still have so much to see.

I am writing more about more of the places we visited and linking to them when I have posted:

Grounds of Alexandria
Harrys Cafe de Wheels, Darling Harbour
Luna Park
Moo Gourmet Burgers and Manly Beach
The Tea Cosy tearooms and The Rocks
Vaucluse House