Tea Rooms 1892, Block Arcade, Spellbox, Melbourne

The Block Arcade in Melbourne's Collins Street is an elegant example of late Victorian era architecture that attracts many tourists and locals too.  I never tire of admiring the grand arches, the tiled mosaics and the soaring glass and metal ceilings.  I often pass what until 2020 was the Hopetoun Tea Rooms and wish I had time to join the queue for the wonderful cakes in the window.  It reopened as the Tea Rooms 1892 and Sylvia and I had lunch there recently.

I had lunch there 20 years ago with my Scottish mother-in-law.  It seems a lifetime away and I wish I remembered it more clearly.  She loved being a lady who lunches and I know we loved that lunch.  In the above photo, it is too late for a queue but when we arrived earlier we had to queue briefly before being ushered in to a table.

  

In the window is a small model of an old time couple enjoying a high tea.  The clientele is not like this any more. Ties for gentlemen and hats and gloves for ladies is no longer de rigeur.  The high tea can still be ordered but must be booked in advance.  We were not so organised.

So instead of a seat at the window with a tiered plate of dainty finger sandwiches, we were in a queue peering in at the gorgeous Victorian green wallpaper and etched glass mirror.  It was redecorated in 1976 in its original Victorian style.

I really loved that the Tea Rooms menu had some information on the history of the Block Arcade which was named for "doing the block" which was the local term for the fashionable people of Melbourne  promenading on that part of Collins Street.  It was the place to be seen.  

Above is a picture of doing the Block by local artist S T Gill.  I was astounded that the date next to the artist's name was 1818-1819 because it is well known that Melbourne was not colonised (settled) by Europeans until the 1830s.  I asked the waitress who was studying history but did not know when Europeans arrived.  I wrote to the manager who said it was a typo and meant to read 1818-1880, the years of S T Gills life.  He did this picture in 1880.  The manager said they would fix it soon.

We wanted to sample all that was on offer so we started with a plate of two scones to share with jam and cream.  We also had pots of tea to pour into elegant delicate tea cups.  Sylvia had Mango Tango tea: mango, rhubarb & green tea.  I had the Ruby Sipper tea: blood orange & hibiscus flower fruit blend.  My tea wasn't very flavoursome to start with but I enjoyed the stronger tea at the end.  Sylvia loved her choice of tea.

Then we had a light lunch.  The vegetarian options were not plentiful.  It was almost like being back with the 1990s with only soup and a salad sandwich on offer.  Having said that, they were very nice.  Sylvia had the Salad sandwich: cheddar cheese, avocado, beetroot, tomato, cucumber, carrot, lettuce and tomato relish.  She is not a big fan of beetroot and so found that a bit overwhelming.  I had a quarter and loved all the beetroot and vegies.

The soup of the day was lentil so I ordered this.  It was a rather big bowlful with lots of sourdough toast.  The soup, much like the sandwiches, are the sort of thing I could make a home.  Despite this I appreciated they were simple good healthy food that I wish I could find in more cafes when I eat out.  But I had expected something fancier in the Tea Rooms. 

We were there for the cakes and scones rather than the savoury food.  I was glad we splashed out and had a slice of cake eat. As you can see above, there were many cakes to choose from if you like strawberries and cream.  (Above clockwise from top left: Red Velvet, Chocolate Strawberry Tart, Pavlova and Lamingtons.)  Sylvia had a very creamy Strawberry sponge and I had a lovely Black Forest cake with a generous chocolate mousse layer.  The desserts were the highlight!

Overall we really enjoyed being ladies who lunch at a fancy historic restaurant.  Although we didn't have a tiered plate, we felt that sandwiches, scones and cake were like a deconstructed high tea.  I felt even better about our choice when the bill ($105) was less than a high tea ($150), and I felt we had more food but cannot confirm.  I can recommend it to anyone who wants to be in the that queue!

Once we left the tea rooms, we had a quick look at the beautiful Gewurzhaus spice shop opposite .  Like quite a few other other shops, the shop had wonderful arched plasterwork on the walls and ceilings.  It pays to look up!

This is the arcade where the tea rooms have extra tables.  I was glad to eat in the restaurant but at the same time, I would love to eat in this grand and light-filled arcade and watch the passersby.

At the other end of the arcade is a spectacular tiled mosaic.  At the time of building in the 1890s, it was reportedly the largest  area of mosaics laid in Australia.  (Of course we weren't a country called Australia until Federation in 1901.)

Look up and you can see the polygonal domed glass ceiling that is said to be inspired by the larger Galleria Vittorio in Milan.  The lacy iron arches are rather beautiful.  It is difficult to take a photo wihtout people in it because it is a busy thoroughfare and this is the place people often stop to look up and admire the architecture.

Another iconic shop by the dome is Haigh's chocolate.  They sell excellent chocolate made in Adelaide.

In the windows we could see that one of the latest special chocolates is a milk mango and macadamia bar.  We didn't go in because it is just too tempting.  (And they stopped making my favourite chocolate covered fudge bars.)

This is the part of the L shaped arcade that exits onto Elizabeth Street.  I remember going to look at upmarket bridal dresses here with a friend before her wedding.  Sylvia and I enjoyed looking at the Dr Suess shop in this section.

We then walked down the Block Place which is less beautiful architecture but the cafes here always seem quite busy and beautiful.  It took us through to Little Collins Street.

Across Little Collins Street is the Royal Arcade.  We entered by this cute Caffe e Torta Cucina.  I have not yet been in there but it always looks very cosy and popular when we pass by. 

We passed by Gog and Magog in the Royal Arcade who have been there since I was a child.  A more recent addition to the arcade is Spellbox. Sylvia very keen to visit and look at the crystals.  It is a beautiful shop.  Entering is like walking into a magical world. 

I am sure it is always busy partly because it is as much as destination as a shop.  They do tarot readings and have interactive exhibits like this Wheel of Stars which you can spin to find an oracle card for you. 

My favourite part of the shop is this tiny fairies house where I have been taking Sylvia since she was little.  It has such a sense of wonder.

Inside is a tiny workshop..  It is fascinating to look at the amazing details.

Then we were back into Royal Arcade and out into Bourke Street Mall to head home on our tram.

The Tea Rooms 1892
Shops 1 and 2, The Block Arcade
282 Collins Street, Melbourne
Open: Mon-Thus: 8am-6pm, Fri: 8am-8pm, Sat and Sun: 9am-5pm
Website: https://thetearooms1892.com.au/

Victorian Parliament House: photos of a tour

A few weeks back I went on a tour of the Victorian Parliament House.  I was rushing to be on time and didn't have time to take a decent photo of the building.  I like the busy nature of my photo.  Our state Parliament House looks down over the city and is often the site of protests (or wedding photographs).

The tour was arranged for members of our local Historical Society by our local MP (Member of Parliament).  It was a wet and windy night and only six of us were able to attend.  The small size of the tour made it very personal and relaxed.

 

To stand on the front steps is easy but getting inside means a security screening and, in our case, wearing a visitor pass sticker.  The vestibule is as impressive as you would expect from a monument to the riches of the Victorian gold rush.  The gold leaf  on the columns can be seen throughout the building to signify the wealth of a state which included Ballarat.  That country town was considered the world's richest alluvial goldfield during its peak between 1852 and 1853.

Just look at the grandeur of the tiled floor in the vestibule.  The doorkeeper and four assistants tool 4 months to lay the tiles in 1888.  

Above it was to be an impressive dome but by the time this was to be constructed in the 1890s, the state was in economic depression and it was put on hold indefinitely.  

From there we were taken into Queens Hall.  It is named after Queen Victoria.  Her statue can be seen behind the garden.This is a space that can be used by the public.  We were shown around by our local MP's staff.  (The MP had a family event and could not be there).  For some of the tour, the senator who also represents our locality showed us about.  We were delighted when the Premier Jacinta Allen was passing and stopped for a photo with us.

It was lovely to see the garden arrangements of the Nursery and Garden Industry Victoria.  Queen's Hall has portraits of most of the premiers of Victoria on the wall.  In this photo, you can see Jeff Kennett and Dick Hamer.

The Victorian Parliament has two houses mirroring the British Parliament.  Like the UK, the Lower House chamber is green and the Upper House chamber is red.  We were taken to the Upper House where our Senator tour guide sits.  The thing he said that surprised me most was that the only drinks they could have was water.  He said quite a few of them wished they could at least have a coffee.

Perhaps the ban on drinks other than water is because they are working in an amazing historic building.  It is rich in detail and meaning.  Above you can see one of the eight figures on the ceiling representing concepts important to Victoria.  This one is wisdom wearing a plumed helmet.  Something for politicians to aspire to!

Next was the Library.  It is such a magnificent room of columns and balconies that it seems incredible it is a working library.  Then you look down at the desks and see the large flat computer screens.

 

The library has two stories and a wonderful winding staircase between them.

I just love the bright red and orange hues of the books under the staircase.

Wouldn't this fireplace be so cosy with a roaring fire.  I wonder when was it was last lit.

These vintage leather chairs seem like they have been here since the dawn of the building.

We headed upstairs past the the fancy metal gates to the upstairs section of the library.

I was amused by this "Strangers Gallery" sign on the stairs up to the public viewing gallery above the Lower House.  The MPs were still sitting when we arrived.  A man scurried in after us to check we knew to keep our phones on silent and no photos.

The sitting was just finishing soon after we began viewing.  I was able to quickly take this photo once the MPs and staff had left and taken the parliamentary mace with them.  Then it was time to move on.

We went out from the viewing gallery by rows of photos of the Speakers of the House.

The main stairs were closed so we went down a back staircase.  It featured a window that was previously external.  The building of Parliament House started in 1856 and has continued ever since as the needs expanded. 

We ended our tour in the Caucus room.  It had photos of many caucuses throughout the years.  I was struck by how much had changed since this 1952 photo.  Men in suits and ties sit on chairs outside parliament house.  Does that mean they are in the middle of Spring Street?  In the middle of the front row sits the Premier John Cain Senior with his pipe.

The 1952 photo seems dull compared to the colour and variety of outfits in today's parliament.  One big difference is that the women's outfits are so far less uniform than men's but clothes generally are more informal.  Above is a photo of Joan Kirner who became Victoria's first female Premier in 1990. She is dressed very differently to the 1952 men.

We had a cup of tea in the Caucus Room with our MP's staffer and chatted about our electorate.  Actually there was quite a bit of conversation about what could be done to improve it.  

It was a pleasure and an honour to do the tour of Parliament House.  Tours are a great opportunity to promote and educate on the work of the Parliament.  The staff were lovely and genuine and the building is a marvel to behold.  You can see more about it and virtual tours on the Parliament of Victoria website.

Johnston Collection: Fit for a King exhibition, East Melbourne

In August we visited the Johnston Collection in East Melbourne to see their Fit for a King Exhibition.  It is situated in a busy part of East Melbourne so the licensing restrictions mean we met in a nearby hotel and were driven to the historic house.  It was a very beautiful exhibition by tour only.  

I really enjoyed the collection but was aware of many politics of class and privilege.  The tour was most of two hours with a sense of no time to stop and ask questions or just wander around each room and chat.  The commentary focused on design, which I suspect reflected Johnston's interest.  I would have been interested in more social and political history.  In this post I am sharing photos with minimal information because I can't remember the details and don't have any information online or otherwise to refer to.

Our tour started in a plain room in a terrace house used for administration and talks.  We were offered a hot drink and given an overview.  The Johnston Collection is the legacy of collector and antique dealer Willliam Johnston (1911-1986).  He travelled regularly to acquire Georgian, Regency and King Louis XV of France's furniture and artworks.  His house Fairhall, in the next building is regularly decorated with different themes and can be visited by booking a tour.

We then started our tour in the hallway of Fairhall.  The house had been decorated by Vincent Jenden to be Fit for a King.  Though the furnishings change regularly, the coloured walls and floors make a unchanging setting for the decorations.

Off the hallway was a receiving room.  Our guide referred to the decorations on this mirror, with little black children incorporated into the ornate gilt frame, as being a product of its time.  I would have liked more of the context of this sort of colonial artwork and how it is now received today.

From the receiving room we entered a small drawing room.

Across the red hallway was a large room for entertaining.

This is a room of two parts with lounge seats set up at one end.

On the other side of the room is a lavishly set dining table with large dressers of plates on either site and French doors out to the garden.

Look at these settings with all that cutlery and gilt edged plates.  It is not how we eat today unless at a very fancy dinner.

We then wen t to the kitchen.  I was a little confused about what it was meant to represent.  I got the impression that this was used until close to Johnston's death in the 1980s but that it was remodelled to its mid Twentieth Century with the old gas stove.

Upstairs to the bedrooms.  At the top of the stairs was this painting of King Louis XIV of France, the Sun King.  I was struck by his high heels that are so unlike what we expect a king to wear today.

This is a small sitting room by one of the bedrooms.

This is the bedroom that is serviced with the sitting room.

This bedroom was set up for the king and queen.  I would love a sweet little table by the bed for someone to bring me a hot drink in the morning.  It also featured a large desk  and a sofa.

The last room we saw was a study with a desk and bookshelves.

Like all the rooms, there were many details of interest that might be set up for a royal visit.  Such as this bust by the bookshelves.

A collection of a miniatures and watches in this display case.

Behind this little figurine is an invitation by the Queen.  There were small allusions to the royal family in most of the rooms.

At the end of the tour we walked through this door which was disguised as a bookcase.  It led to a gift shop in the next door terrace house where we had started.  I was glad we did the tour even though it did not quite satisfy my interest in social history.  Sylvia was not keen on the tour but enjoyed seeing the house.

Johnston Collection
East Melbourne
https://johnstoncollection.org/

Fit for a King Exhibition
28 February to 8 September 2024