Tea Rooms 1892, Block Arcade, Spellbox, Melbourne

The Block Arcade in Melbourne's Collins Street is an elegant example of late Victorian era architecture that attracts many tourists and locals too.  I never tire of admiring the grand arches, the tiled mosaics and the soaring glass and metal ceilings.  I often pass what until 2020 was the Hopetoun Tea Rooms and wish I had time to join the queue for the wonderful cakes in the window.  It reopened as the Tea Rooms 1892 and Sylvia and I had lunch there recently.

I had lunch there 20 years ago with my Scottish mother-in-law.  It seems a lifetime away and I wish I remembered it more clearly.  She loved being a lady who lunches and I know we loved that lunch.  In the above photo, it is too late for a queue but when we arrived earlier we had to queue briefly before being ushered in to a table.

  

In the window is a small model of an old time couple enjoying a high tea.  The clientele is not like this any more. Ties for gentlemen and hats and gloves for ladies is no longer de rigeur.  The high tea can still be ordered but must be booked in advance.  We were not so organised.

So instead of a seat at the window with a tiered plate of dainty finger sandwiches, we were in a queue peering in at the gorgeous Victorian green wallpaper and etched glass mirror.  It was redecorated in 1976 in its original Victorian style.

I really loved that the Tea Rooms menu had some information on the history of the Block Arcade which was named for "doing the block" which was the local term for the fashionable people of Melbourne  promenading on that part of Collins Street.  It was the place to be seen.  

Above is a picture of doing the Block by local artist S T Gill.  I was astounded that the date next to the artist's name was 1818-1819 because it is well known that Melbourne was not colonised (settled) by Europeans until the 1830s.  I asked the waitress who was studying history but did not know when Europeans arrived.  I wrote to the manager who said it was a typo and meant to read 1818-1880, the years of S T Gills life.  He did this picture in 1880.  The manager said they would fix it soon.

We wanted to sample all that was on offer so we started with a plate of two scones to share with jam and cream.  We also had pots of tea to pour into elegant delicate tea cups.  Sylvia had Mango Tango tea: mango, rhubarb & green tea.  I had the Ruby Sipper tea: blood orange & hibiscus flower fruit blend.  My tea wasn't very flavoursome to start with but I enjoyed the stronger tea at the end.  Sylvia loved her choice of tea.

Then we had a light lunch.  The vegetarian options were not plentiful.  It was almost like being back with the 1990s with only soup and a salad sandwich on offer.  Having said that, they were very nice.  Sylvia had the Salad sandwich: cheddar cheese, avocado, beetroot, tomato, cucumber, carrot, lettuce and tomato relish.  She is not a big fan of beetroot and so found that a bit overwhelming.  I had a quarter and loved all the beetroot and vegies.

The soup of the day was lentil so I ordered this.  It was a rather big bowlful with lots of sourdough toast.  The soup, much like the sandwiches, are the sort of thing I could make a home.  Despite this I appreciated they were simple good healthy food that I wish I could find in more cafes when I eat out.  But I had expected something fancier in the Tea Rooms. 

We were there for the cakes and scones rather than the savoury food.  I was glad we splashed out and had a slice of cake eat. As you can see above, there were many cakes to choose from if you like strawberries and cream.  (Above clockwise from top left: Red Velvet, Chocolate Strawberry Tart, Pavlova and Lamingtons.)  Sylvia had a very creamy Strawberry sponge and I had a lovely Black Forest cake with a generous chocolate mousse layer.  The desserts were the highlight!

Overall we really enjoyed being ladies who lunch at a fancy historic restaurant.  Although we didn't have a tiered plate, we felt that sandwiches, scones and cake were like a deconstructed high tea.  I felt even better about our choice when the bill ($105) was less than a high tea ($150), and I felt we had more food but cannot confirm.  I can recommend it to anyone who wants to be in the that queue!

Once we left the tea rooms, we had a quick look at the beautiful Gewurzhaus spice shop opposite .  Like quite a few other other shops, the shop had wonderful arched plasterwork on the walls and ceilings.  It pays to look up!

This is the arcade where the tea rooms have extra tables.  I was glad to eat in the restaurant but at the same time, I would love to eat in this grand and light-filled arcade and watch the passersby.

At the other end of the arcade is a spectacular tiled mosaic.  At the time of building in the 1890s, it was reportedly the largest  area of mosaics laid in Australia.  (Of course we weren't a country called Australia until Federation in 1901.)

Look up and you can see the polygonal domed glass ceiling that is said to be inspired by the larger Galleria Vittorio in Milan.  The lacy iron arches are rather beautiful.  It is difficult to take a photo wihtout people in it because it is a busy thoroughfare and this is the place people often stop to look up and admire the architecture.

Another iconic shop by the dome is Haigh's chocolate.  They sell excellent chocolate made in Adelaide.

In the windows we could see that one of the latest special chocolates is a milk mango and macadamia bar.  We didn't go in because it is just too tempting.  (And they stopped making my favourite chocolate covered fudge bars.)

This is the part of the L shaped arcade that exits onto Elizabeth Street.  I remember going to look at upmarket bridal dresses here with a friend before her wedding.  Sylvia and I enjoyed looking at the Dr Suess shop in this section.

We then walked down the Block Place which is less beautiful architecture but the cafes here always seem quite busy and beautiful.  It took us through to Little Collins Street.

Across Little Collins Street is the Royal Arcade.  We entered by this cute Caffe e Torta Cucina.  I have not yet been in there but it always looks very cosy and popular when we pass by. 

We passed by Gog and Magog in the Royal Arcade who have been there since I was a child.  A more recent addition to the arcade is Spellbox. Sylvia very keen to visit and look at the crystals.  It is a beautiful shop.  Entering is like walking into a magical world. 

I am sure it is always busy partly because it is as much as destination as a shop.  They do tarot readings and have interactive exhibits like this Wheel of Stars which you can spin to find an oracle card for you. 

My favourite part of the shop is this tiny fairies house where I have been taking Sylvia since she was little.  It has such a sense of wonder.

Inside is a tiny workshop..  It is fascinating to look at the amazing details.

Then we were back into Royal Arcade and out into Bourke Street Mall to head home on our tram.

The Tea Rooms 1892
Shops 1 and 2, The Block Arcade
282 Collins Street, Melbourne
Open: Mon-Thus: 8am-6pm, Fri: 8am-8pm, Sat and Sun: 9am-5pm
Website: https://thetearooms1892.com.au/