Edinburgh sightseeing, Stockbridge Market, Peter's Yard, Botanic Gardens and Epic Chalk Day

It was Epic Chalk Day that inspired today's fun day in Stockbridge and surrounds.  It was a day of markets, a vegan butcher, a Swedish baker, chalking, gardens, friends and charity shops.

It started with a bus trip to Stockbridge to visit the market.  I went early because I had heard there would be a vegan butcher there.  Who could resist!  E came later with Sylvia and her cousin.  It was great to wander about the market, tasting and chatting and trying to resist temptation.

The first stall I saw made me do a double take!  Easter eggs for dogs!  Do dogs really need easter eggs?  (Does this mean I should be sending a postcard to my cat in her cattery while I am away with apologies that she doesn't get an easter egg from me?)

I really liked these pictures and was so tempted to buy one.  Perhaps if E had been there I might have but I wasn't quite sure which one to pick as I loved so many of cats and robins and Scottish streetscapes.

The market had lots of expected offerings.  Pretty cupcakes, tempting slices, large wedges of cheese and beautiful bread.

I was really there because I was fascinated upon hearing there would be a vegan butcher there.  Which was very odd.  Normally I avoid all the meat stalls but today I paid careful attention just in case they were vegan.

The vegan butcher was easy to find.  It was run by Sgaia Foods.  I enjoyed chatting to the people who ran it as they were friendly and happy to discuss the products.

I tasted some of the steak and was taken aback at just how meaty and smoky it tasted.  Pretty impressive.

Their display of meat was interesting to look at, even if slightly disturbing if you are veg*n and not missing meat.  I chose a packet of streaky bacon and am planning to fry up some for breakfast.  Will report back on it.

Shire snax, the store next door was vegan, raw and gluten free.  But I would have stopped anyway because that dragon is really cute.  They sell raw energy bars, cakes and brownies.  I bought a Jaffa (the Hutt) bar.  I really liked the chocolate orange flavour.

The I was pretty excited by some superfoods salts.  Superfoods aren't my thing but I love fancy salts.  I bought a Ghost Lava salt.  It is black salt with chilli.  I really need to sprinkle it on a soup.  The saleswoman read my information about it being lower in sodium and good for me but I regret to say I was too excited about buying black salt to take it in.

They had other interesting salt mixes, sauces and vinegars. 

The last stall where I made a purchase was the Considerit chocolate maker.  They had a great range of vegan and dairy free chocolates.  When I asked about the basket of cream eggs, I was told they had fondant in them and were for people who hadn't been able to eat Creme eggs.  I bought a chocolate with a madagascan vanilla truffle centre and one with honeycomb chips.  Delicious.

After the market, I walked down Raeburn Place to browse the shops.  This was where E caught up with me.  We could not believe how many charity shops there were and that most of them were open on Sunday.  It never would have been like that in E's granny's day.

The reason we had gone across to that side of town was the Epic Chalk Day in Inverleith Park.  We had stumbled across it while looking at what was on while in Edinburgh.  The organiser Paul Togneri is a local street artist who brought lots of chalk and encouraged everyone to draw on the footpath.  It was really busy and according to their facebook page, they ran out of chalk but everyone seemed friendly in sharing chalk.

Then Sylvia was hangry.  And we were so close to the Botanics Gardens that we went over.  It is a place that is dear to E who loved visiting as a wee boy.  The Terrace Cafe that we have visited before was closed until next weekend.  The cafe was temporarily relocated to the main building as a pop up.  It was chaotic but warmer. 

I had a lovely lentil, carrot and carraway soup with a cheese scone.  Sylvia and her cousin had the kids packs with sandwiches, babybel cheese, juices and grapes.  E shared their sandwiches and Sylvia had some of my scone.

We had planned to meet Scottish blogger, Jacqueline of Tinned Tomatoes, at the Epic Chalk Day but instead met her and her wee boy Cooper at the Botanics.  They went through the Glasshouses but we didn't.  We were surprised and disappointed that it now cost £5.50 for an adult to go through.  Last time we were there it was free.  Which seems right and proper in a public place like the Botanics.

However we met up with Jac and Cooper and had a relaxed time wandering around the grounds and stopped at this tree with the huge roots.  The kids had a lovely time playing there.

Then we walked back to Stockbridge along the Water of Leith.  It is interesting that this walkway was opened as recently as 1981 in such an old area of Edinburgh.  E remembers that you couldn't walk this way when he was a boy though he also said he would sometimes squeeze through a gap in the railing when he was quite small.  He was very pleased to see a dipper in the water.  Apparently it is rare to see this bird.

E was ready for a coffee and I had already checked out Peter's Yard earlier that day.  The cinnamon buns were magnificent.  So soft and fresh and flavoursome.  It was close to where we came out from the Water of Leith.  This is a Swedish bakery with a small cafe attached.  On both visits I shared a table with strangers as there isn't heaps of seating.

E tried a cardamom bun.  He was likewise smitten with it.  He also said his soy latte was one of the best he had had in Edinburgh.  Sylvia and her cousin had ice creams and they were delicious.  I had had enough sweet food and asked if I could have bread and cheese.  They were only too happy to oblige.  The bread was delicious and the cheese was rather tasty.

I really loved Peter's Yard.  They also do a cheese and bread basket and pizzas that I would love to try.  There is another Peters Yard bakery close to the Meadows near to where we are staying.  It is very tempting to go there and buy a loaf of their lovely bread and perhaps a bun or two to take home.

There were a few cafes I would have been happy to stop at for a bite in Stockbridge.  We are unlikely to get back there on this visit but were pleased to spend some time there today.

Terrace Cafe
Royal Botanic Gardens
Inverleith Row
Edinburgh
0131 552 0616
http://www.rbge.org.uk/

Peters Yard
3 Deanhaugh Street
Stockbridge, Edinburgh
0131 3222901
http://petersyard.com/

Edinburgh dispatches: Longniddry, kitchens, buses

I lived with this view of Edinburgh Castle for two years and everywhere you go in Edinburgh's centre it confronts you and yet I can't get enough of it.  So grand and majestic.

We visited an old work colleague in Longniddry on the weekend.  She and her partner are charmingly hospitable.  We were treated to homemade soup and homemade bread.  It was such a treat after holiday eating.  They took us to a swing park for Sylvia and then on a walk to see wild boat.  The wild boar were nowhere to be seen but there was lots of mud on the path beyond this fancy gate.

Sylvia is so excited by double decker buses.  I understand.  They were magical to me at her age too.  She particularly loves sitting up the top in the front seat.  Sometimes she counts buses.  Her favourite has Maisie cat on it.  I regret I don't have a better photo.  If only those buses didn't whizz by so quickly!

I wish I could tell you that this kitchen was just like the one in my holiday accommodation.  It is not quite so fancy.  This dolls house is in the Museum of Childhood on the Royal Mile.

The kitchen at our first holiday flat was far more modern but a lovely place to cook and eat.  It is the same kitchen where I cooked a Christmas dinner for 10 some years ago.

This is the bedroom in the same flat.  We really loved the flat and were sad that due to booking at such short notice, we could not stay there for all of our time in Edinburgh.

I booked a second flat which we moved into about a week ago.  It is fairly ordinary compared to the warm welcoming flat we had at the start of the trip.  The kitchen is so badly equipped that we have had to borrow a chopping board and salt.

I made some macaroni cheese out of this packet on my first night here and it needed seasoning.  Given the lack of salt, I crushed up a packet of Worcester crisps to sprinkle on it.  Possibly the culinary low of the holidays!  At least the owners have replaced the old fridge that wasn't doing much chilling when we arrived.

Souped Up on St Patrick's Day

St Patrick's Day is just coming to an end in Edinburgh (though in Australia it is well and truly over as reflected on my blogger clock being set to Aussie time).  We had a fairly relaxed day of meals out and a visit to the playground at the Meadows.  I loved the tiny Souped Up kiosk which fittingly was in St Patrick Square Garden.  As I loved St Patrick's Day, I will also share a few sightings that it is alive and kicking in Edinburgh.

Firstly, the Irish pub.  Biddy Mulligans on the Grassmarket had the flags and the signs out that they would be celebrating St Pat's Day.

A couple of days ago we went to the Scottish Storytelling Centre for a St Pat's Ceilidh of songs and stories.  It was very amusing with some great songs ("Let him go, let him tarry", "The Irish Rover", and "The Foggy Dew").  I really admire those who can get up in front of an audience and sing solo with no accompanying music.

We started the day with breakfast at The Southern Bar in South Clerk Street.  The we went around the corner to the children's playground at the Meadows.  Sylvia had a lovely time.

Then we walked down to the little green kiosk called Souped Up.  I saw it a few days ago and was quite taken with the cute wee kiosk that is a "souped up" old police box.  That's right, it is like Dr Who's TARDIS but green!  Check out this article on Edinburgh's Tardis Style Coffee Shops, Soup Bars and Burrito Stands.

I was interested to see the sandwich board announcing that Souped Up offered vegan food.  In particular a chalk board advertised a Vegan BLT with smoked tofu.  Sylvia and I ordered paninis.

We sat at the little table opposite the tenements.  Sylvia waved to the folk on the buses.  No one waved back.  That isn't very friendly, is it!

More cheery was the collage on the wee table beside the kiosk.  And the woman in the kiosk was very helpful and friendly to chat to.

Sylvia had melted cheese in a panini.  I encouraged her to have it toasted as it was so cold.  She also had a soy hot chocolate and loved having it in a disposable cup with a sipping hole in the lid.  It warmed her hands and made her feel grown up.

My panini was a decidedly untraditional BLT with smoked tofu, sundried tomatoes, spinach and chutney.  It was hot, crisp and delicious, though a little messy.  I shared some of my smoked tofu with Sylvia.  She didn't get through her panini so we decided against the choc chip mint cupcakes or gingerbread tiffin, even though we were tempted.

Next we had a laugh at ridiculous St Patrick's Day window displays in a party shop.  The shop was busy with young people entering in packs talking about green hair dye.  Oh to be young and dress in green and drink green beer.  Though not these green outfits!

We walked back to our flat where I left Sylvia and E watching Coraline while I headed into town.  I ha a little time to kill before meeting a friend.  Which meant a visit to Lakeland and exploring a few shops on George Street and the food hall at Harvey Nichols.  It made me laugh that Harvey Nicks high class products include the bog standard Aussie supermarket staples of Tim Tams, Milo and Aeroplane Jelly.

Finally I had dinner at Tiles with my friend Anne.  It was great to catch up.  Then I headed out into the mist to catch the bus home.

I hope you had a good St Pat's Day.  For green food, check out my St Patrick's food post.

Souped Up
22a St Patrick Square
Off South Clerk Street
Edinburgh
www.getsoupedup.co.uk

Edinburgh Sightseeing: Cafe at the Palace (of Holyroodhouse)

Today we walked down the Royal Mile to Holyroodhouse Palace where the Queen resides when in Edinburgh.  It was a chilly day and we were hungry.  It was lovely to eat in the Cafe at the Palace before doing a tour of the palace.

The Cafe at the Palace is a large building in the Palace Mews.  It reminded me of a summer house with the glass roof and light open windows.  Outside are seats under large umbrellas.  Quite optimistic for today's weather.

As the hardest one of us to please is Sylvia, I am always grateful when a cafe caters to kids.  The cafe did great kids meal bags.  It also offered me a warming soup and E a generous plate of haggis, neeps and tatties.  We were all pleased with our meals that tasted good and weren't too expensive.  Other than soup, there were some vegetarian sandwich options and a goats cheese tart.

The most amusing aspect of our meal was that E had to wait for his haggis.  He was given a crown to show the staff that he was very important and must be served as soon as possible.  (Note to others: these crowns will lose jewels if they fall to the ground while having fun taking photos as they are actually too small for even a small child's head and can only balance there precariously!)

Sylvia's child's bag was very good.  It cost £3.90.  For this she got a small cheese sandwich, a packet of teddy bear crisps, an apple and pear juice, a small packet of strawberry fruit chews, an apple, a bag with activities on it and some crayons.  Most bags had ham sandwiches but when I asked for one with a cheese sandwich the staff made one up for her (hence it is not pictured here) and were happy to make it without butter.  This is one of the best lunches we have found for her in Edinburgh.  Even though I ate most of her apple.  Minion case not included!

I had a cream of cauliflower soup with a bread roll.  It was very creamy and satisfying.

I chose the soup so I could have a cake.  Who could resist this display of Easter cakes!

Sylvia had a "runny egg chocolate cake".  It was a nice cake with lots of icing but not amazing.

E and I shared a huge toffee crunch scone.  This was a toffee flavoured scone filled with cream and a toffee sauce.  It was intriguingly and pleasingly different from any scone I have had before.  I enjoyed it so much that I forgave it all that cream and the chill of being in the fridge section.  I scraped off a lot of the cream but E was happy to eat some of it.

Then we headed off to Holyroodhouse Palace.  It is a grand building that took Sylvia's breath away.  We had audio tours as we went through the rooms.  Sylvia had a child's guide which was frustrating as it was hard to know what she had been told and what she hadn't when talking about the palace but she enjoyed her tour.

Once inside, photography was forbidden so I cannot share any photos of the fancy four poster bed with regal red curtains in the King's Bedchamber, of Mary Queen of Scots' impressive wooden painted bedroom ceiling or the wall of portraits in the Great Gallery.

It was all grand and beautiful and fascinating.  Lots of huge tapestries, portraits, spiral staircases, delft tiles in fireplaces, deep window seats and large chests.  Sylvia would have loved to sit on the thrones, I would have loved to have a go at playing the harpsichord and E was fascinated with the curiosities in Mary Queen of Scots' Outer Chamber.  We all could have done without the hoards of French school children.

At the end of the tour is the ruins of Holyrood Abbey which dates back to 1128.  It is always such a mystery to me as to how these grand solid buildings can fall into ruin.  A reminder of how nothing lasts as long as I expect.

And then we headed back up the Royal Mile to catch our bus on the Bridges.  We stopped at Mimi's Bakehouse for a cuppa and at Cranacham and Crowdie for some excellent Scottish produce.  We enjoyed browsing in Unknown Pleasures, Ragamuffin and Pinnies and Poppyseeds.  E was delighted to find there is still a branch of Avalanche record shop in Edinburgh.  We also hope to get back to Serenity Cafe and Procaffeination.  So much to do and so little time to blog about it all.

Cafe at the Palace
Palace of Holyroodhouse,
Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh Old Town
0131 652 3685
website

Edinburgh pub: The Beehive Inn

Today we had a walk around our old haunts in the Old Town of Edinburgh: the High Street, Victoria Street, the Grassmarket, the West Port, Candlemaker Row.  I had planned to eat vegetarian haggis nachos at The Last Drop but it seems it is no longer one of my favourite pubs now that they no longer serve the nachos.  Instead I had vegetarian fish and chips at the Beehive and cake at lovecrumbs.

It was a lovely sunny day and the Grassmarket was buzzing with rugby tragics after the match on the weekend brought fans from France.  We sat down in The Last Drop full of expectation.  The place had changed since our visit in 2012.  The only options for vegetarians were a boring macaroni cheese or a burger and chips.  So I set out to find something else.

The Beehive Inn offered more vegie options.  E noted to me later that there was an English address at the bottom of the menu.  Which perhaps explains why it was all about "British" food rather than Scottish food.  He was most displeased there was no haggis on the menu.

It was busy out the front and I got sidetracked from checking out the beer garden.  Sylvia was not welcome in the bar.  So we sat at the indoor dining area which had some character with the deep red upholstery and stone walls.  She was very happy to have a Kids menu, even if there wasn't much on it that interested her.  She stayed with the safe option of chips.  E had a sandwich and salad.

I had a Fentimans Ginger Beer.  I remember the Fentimans drinks from my last trip.  They are soft drink for grown ups.  Lots of flavour without being too sugary.

I was fascinated with the veggie fish and chips.  They were served with mushy peas on the side for a true British experience.  Then once I had my meal I had to ask E how I was meant to eat the mushy peas.  They are just not found in Aussie fish and chips shops.  Were they for dipping chips or spreading on the fish.  I ended up just eating them with a fork.

The "fish" was haloumi in batter.  It was lovely and crisp and delicious dipped in a tartare sauce.  It actually tasted a bit like fish n batter, without being fishy.  Which was all I wanted.  I had seen the Veg Hog making fish in batter with haloumi a while back and really loved being able to taste this.

Then we headed off for cake at lovecrumbs and more trips down memory lane.  I was delighted by the vintage clothes in Armstrongs.  Sylvia read a picture book about Greyfriars Bobby in a bookstore and then walked straight past the statue.  She says she was distracted the sirens of a firetruck.  E was excited to find a cat cafe called Maison de Moggy.  We all then headed to my sister in law' house for a fantastic takeaway curry from Voujon.

Beehive Inn
18-20 The Grassmarket, Edinburgh Old Town
Open: 11am - 1om
0131 225 7171
website